七餅的起源蘊藏一位太太的智慧
2012/4/5
記者楊水詠/金城報導
清明節,又稱民族掃墓節,也是重要民俗節日之一。在是日,家家戶戶有烹煮「七餅(金門話)」敬拜祖先和吃「七餅」的習俗,而餅皮更是不可或缺的。金城市街幾家製做「七餅」店,昨天出現大排長龍購買餅皮的畫面;買回去祭祖後,全家品嚐應節美食的好滋味。
金門話的「七餅」,又稱潤餅、薄餅、擦餅,是以蔬菜、肉絲、豆腐絲、海蚵等烹製餡料,搭配炸花生粉、香菜及淋上醬料等,再以白色餅皮包裹的金門風味美食。而,製做一張好的潤餅皮,最重要的是要「實在」,從挑選麵粉、和麵、最後的擦皮,每一道手續都馬虎不得,尤其最後一道擦餅皮出爐,火候更要拿捏精準。
清明吃薄餅的習俗,最普遍的說法起源於春秋時代介之推被晉文公燒山致死,後人當天禁火生食紀念,也就是寒食節,再成為「春日盤」,這是流傳到閩南的中原遺風。不過,有文史工作者指出,閩南吃薄餅的起源,還有與明代節制五省軍務的金門先賢蔡復一有關的傳說。
根據金門縣志記載,蔡厝人蔡復一為明神宗萬曆年間進士,熹宗天啟年間,以都察院右僉都御使總督貴州、雲南、湖廣軍務,兼巡撫貴州,賜尚方寶劍,節制五省,征剿西南苗亂,有「撫劍鎮太平,舉筆安天下」的美名。
相傳蔡復一為官清正,不願黨附當權太監魏忠賢,屢遭用計加害,在平苗時,連下十二道文書並限期回覆。蔡復一軍務繁重,又在病中,窮於應付,已無暇用餐,他的妻子李氏發明將麵粉烘成「七餅」,裹以菜蔬的做法,讓丈夫右手執筆、左手吃餅不誤公務,因此,流傳有「七餅助夫」的佳話。
「七餅」的做法繁瑣,餅皮是將麵粉攪勻擦於平底鍋上使熟,成為一張薄薄的圓形餅狀。而,餡料包括蒜苗、芹菜、紅蘿蔔、豌豆、冬筍、高麗菜等生鮮蔬菜,細切與肉絲、豆腐絲、海蚵等文火煨煮熟爛為主菜,再與花生粉等配料,包裹在薄餅皮內,成為一道金門風味美食。
「七餅」又稱春餅,意指春天才吃得到的美食,其實,這與節氣有關。金門民眾普遍了解,春天到來,蔬菜生鮮,且主要作料的海蚵最為肥美、滋味最好,因此,不僅是民眾解饞的佳餚,更是清明祭祖最佳的孝心表現。
The origin of the seven cakes hidden wisdom of a wife
2012/4/5
Reporter Yang Yong / Jincheng reported
Ching Ming Festival, also known as Tomb Sweeping Day, is also an important folk festivals. In 2007, every household cooking "seven cake (Golden Gate)" ancestor worship and eat seven cake "customs, while the crust is essential. Gold city street a few making seven cake shop yesterday, long queues to buy the picture of the crust; buy back ancestral family enjoy the festive food good taste.Kinmen "cake", also known as the Run cake, pizza, rub the cake is cooked vegetables, pork, tofu, silk, sea oyster stuffing, with a fried peanut powder, coriander and topped with sauce, and then white crust wrapped Golden Gate cuisine. However, making a good run crust, the most important thing is to "really" from the selection of flour, and noodles, the final rub skin, every procedures are sloppy, especially the last one rub crust baked, the heat more to draw the line precisely.The custom of the Qingming eating pizza, the most common argument originated in the Spring and Autumn Period referred push Lord Wen burning mountain death, descendants of raw food to commemorate the day the fire ban, that is, the Cold Food Festival, and then become spring plate, which is spread to southern Fujian The Zhongyuan legacy. However, there are many cultural workers point out that the The Minnan eat pizza origin of restraint with the Ming Dynasty, the five provinces and military affairs of the Golden Gate sages Cai complex legend.According to the Kinmen County records, Choa Chu Cai complex Wanli Emperor Wanli Scholars Tianqi Emperor apocalyptic years, are messengers to Censorate right Resentment of the Governor of Guizhou, Yunnan, Hubei and Hunan, military affairs, and chief governor of Guizhou, thanks to imperial sword, moderation in five provinces Zhengchao southwest seedlings chaos "Fu sword town of Taiping, held Pen tranquility" of good reputation.According to legend, Cai complex an official honest and do not want to party in power in the eunuch Wei Zhongxian and repeated using the total harm, Ping Miao, with twelve instruments and the deadline for reply. Cai complex a heavy military affairs, illness, overwhelmed, and has no time to dine, his wife, Lee's invention will bake the flour into the seven cakes, wrapped in the practice of the vegetables, let her husband right hand write the left hand does not eat the bread of mistaken for official business, so spread the stories of the seven cakes to help her husband.Cumbersome, the practice of "cake" crust rub the flour, stir in the pan so that cooked, becoming a thin circular pie. , Fillings, including garlic, celery, carrots, peas, bamboo shoots, cabbage dishes, fresh vegetables, fine-cut pork, tofu silk, sea oysters and other simmer the mixture gently cooked rotten as a main dish with peanut powder ingredients wrapped in popiah skin, the a Gammon cuisine.Seven cake ", also known as Fajitas, means that only in the spring to eat to get food, in fact, and solar terms. Universal understanding of the people of Kinmen, the arrival of spring, fresh vegetables, main seasoning of sea oyster is the most fertile, best taste, therefore, not only is the cuisine of the people to satisfy their craving more the Qingming ancestors the best arrangement and performance.
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